Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Little Monster hardware issues, upgrades and configurations
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Redemptioner
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Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by Redemptioner » Sun Feb 04, 2018 11:03 pm

This coming weeks I will be posting up all the detail and the items needed to bring your Tevo Little Monster up to a PRO level. These upgrades and modifications not only significantly improve the print speed and quality it also drastically increases the the range of plastics you can print and ensure repeatable and reliable prints day in and day out.

We will be taking a detailed look at the following upgrades;
- Convert to Duet Wifi (including firmware configuration)
- Convert to Duet Panel
- Convert to lightweight, twisted and shielded wiring
- Modify controller enclosure and wiring
- Convert to genuine E3D Volcano hotend
- Convert to high quality 0.9 degree stepper motors
- Convert to Titan Extruder and 0.9 degree pancake stepper motor
- Convert to IR sensor for Z-probe
- Convert to slimline fan ducts (keep the duct/fans inside the footprint of the effector and reduce weight)
- Convert to 16 Tooth pulleys and idlers
- Modify power supply and mounting
- Add filament detector and guide (detect when out of filament and pause print)
- Add spring mounted heater bed
- Add removable heated bed plate (change beds between prints)
- Add full case enclosure
- Add localized cam
- Add web cam
- Add enclosure lighting
- Add air-scrubber and case ventilation (no more smell)
- Add controlled enclosure heating
- Add 2nd extruder and dual filament detector (for multicolored/filament printing)
- Convert to Piezo Z-probe bed leveling
If it ain't broke then modify it

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Xerxes
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by Xerxes » Fri Mar 02, 2018 8:03 pm

Looking forward to seeing all your improvements.

I'm really interested in upgrading that control board to DuetWiFi as you have suggested. Will save a lot of work if you explain your experience here.

tblanton
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by tblanton » Thu Apr 26, 2018 2:56 pm

Any update on this? Recently purchased the TLM and looking to make a few of these changes myself.

st0e
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by st0e » Sun Jun 03, 2018 8:36 am

has there been any update?
would love to hear from any upgrades and possibilities ;-)

best regards!

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Xerxes
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by Xerxes » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:34 pm

Original Poster went AWOL. Maybe he'll reappear, in the meantime I'll share what I'm doing.

I'm currently almost finished with an enclosure and heated chamber for the TLM (been on the back-burner for some time.) I expect this to really help the results of printing large ABS objects. From what I hear the enclosure will be enough to make a large difference, but the pro-grade solutions have 80C heated chambers, so I will also try that.

The cheapest way I found was to use corflute board on the two open rear sides and follow the profile of the bed (hex shaped blue border), and perspex on the front (in 3 pieces) for a door.

You can sandwich the corflute against the aluminium frame using 1m long 1mm thick, 20mm wide aluminium strip, drilled and held in place with "20 Series European Standard M3 Thread T-Nut" (which fits inside the channels to secure) and 10mm m3 screws. Use thread lock (loctite 222 screw lock) on the screws. Apart from the usual benefits, it really helps turn the T-nuts reliably in the channel when assembling.

At the front I used 1mm aluminium 90 degree angle (1m long, 20mm wide, 1mm thick) to secure a 7.5cm wide strip of perspex on both sides. With another 1mm 20mm wide strip on top as a washer to spread the load on the perspex from the fasteners, and to help secure the corflute fill at the top.

To the perspex 45 degree edges is a hinged perspex door 26.3 cm wide.

I used perspex shorter than 1m because it was free.. At the top I will fill the open space with a bent corflute panel.

Also moved the extruder to the side of the TLM with a bowden type setup to get the stepper out of the heat.

I will follow this up myself with some pictures and instructions as I complete and test these.

The plan for the heated chamber is a "400W 220V Insulated PTC Air Heating Element Electric Heater", with an external temperature controller, to get the chamber to 80C.. The PTC should regulate the temperature, but the temperature controller is just another layer of control, allowing warm up and lower temperatures. I've noticed a few different versions of these heaters around that look the same. This one is "insulated", if it doesn't say, assume it isn't, and the heating element is LIVE. No idea why they sell these in a version that has a live element, except to say there are no safety standards in some places ;-) The insulted version seems to be more than double the price. About $40 on banggood or ebay. I have not tested it may well not work, but I'll see how it goes!

Worth noting that 1m lengths need to be trimmed to 998mm to fit inside my printer, so keep that in mind and measure yours before you get anyone to cut materials for you. Generally you can buy 1m lengths of aluminium anyway, and file them down by hand.

Current progress:
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Last edited by Xerxes on Sat Jun 23, 2018 6:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Xerxes
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by Xerxes » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:39 pm

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Xerxes
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by Xerxes » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:39 pm

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Geert01
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by Geert01 » Sun Jun 17, 2018 1:28 pm

That looks awesome, I'm actually in the middle of receiving all the parts required for making an enclosure myself.

I havent thought about adding a heater for the enclosure itself, how do you think the perspex will react to 80 degrees? Will it handle it without softening?

I am using polycarbonate myself as that was readily available, I wonder If i can add a heater too...

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Xerxes
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Re: Upgrade you Tevo Little Monster - Pro Addition

Post by Xerxes » Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:55 pm

Thanks for the reply.

Finished an enclosure, it didn't help much with the abs warping. Ambient temperatures here are quite low at the moment (to be fair the we heat to 20C indoors, this room might be a bit lower, and I also didn't use a brim). See photo attached of the box to hold the temperature controller electronics being printed. Printed at draft/fast quality (.35mm layer height), the box is still usable in the end so I will use it to get moving.

The perspex will melt at 160C so it should be fine inside the printer with an active heater.

Door is held shut by rare earth magnets embedded in cavities in the perspex I cut out with a dremel, and secured with hot glue. Seems to hold the door shut really well.

Moving the extruder to a side mounted bowden setup went without a hitch, I changed the retraction speed up to 100mm/s and the retraction length to 3.5mm and seemed to get decent print results on the test print. I have seen people recommending "bowden clips" so I will add those in future to prevent tube disconnection. For now working well.

The bowden ptfe tube is approximately 60CM (you may shorten it a couple cm) in length and enters the side of the printer at about 40cm up as measured from the top surface of the aluminium base. This allows the entire range of movement the effector is capable of. I reused the holder from on top of the effector to hold the extruder to the side of the printer and just flipped the extruder around to face the other way. A strip of aluminium (or in this case I used wood) and some t-nuts will secure the triangle part of it to the printer (see pic in preceding post.)

Unfortunately I broke the door off the printer shortly after the photos were taken, it's a bad idea to drill perspex close to the edges as its brittle and any weight on it will break it. It also cracks like glass from the pressure of the screws mounting in it. I will remount the door with 4 of 1m x 20mm x 1mm aluminium strip (cut to length of door) both sides and much larger hinges to get the screws much farther into the material away from the edge, and to spread the load on it. I couldn't find large hinges with small holes for m3 screws at the hardware when I looked before, this time I will buy large "door" ones and just drill 3.5mm holes in between the existing holes.

A bit of a design issue with the printer is the way the cable to the hotend enters the top, the cable is able to get stuck (rarely) between the carriage and the top of the printer, preventing it from reaching home position, and causing the belts to jump/skip like in a crash. (This is how the door got broke as i reached to pull the power) My advice; Check that when your printer is in the home position if the cable coils up and sits on top of any of the carriages, its a disaster waiting to happen, and it needs to be pulled away by some means because it will eventually jam it. Mine was always like that and it never managed to catch the cable (there is a slit it in that needs to rotate just right) till today, and now it's done it twice in a few hours. I suppose it could be pulled away with elastic, but I think I will remove the black outer casing entirely in favour of something thinner (mesh maybe), that will not make large coils and tend to land on top of the carriage. I'm also finally going to remove the plugs in the cables to the hotend to tidy it up and further reduce weight.

Also added lighting using the 24V Dc power input screw terminal of the smoothie board, wired to a buck converter, to a switch (on the side of the control box) and then wired to 2x 50cm lengths 3528 bright white self adhesive 5v led strip up the inside of the printer.. Looks nice.

So far I have tested the 400W PTC heater and it really pumps out the heat, so I'm not worried about whether it will be powerful enough now. I will rewire it so the fan is permanently on from the switch in the temperature control box when power is supplied to the temperature controller, and the relay from the controller will turn the PTC heater on and off.

After I add the active heater and reprint the box (using it to achieve better results I hope), I'll post the schematics for the wiring and a parts list.

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